French food is hard to pull off. Exciting French food is next to impossible. But ever since Mirabelle moved to its new home at the Three Village Inn at the heart of Stony Brook Village, something’s been happening. And it’s good. At first glance, the restaurant seems vanilla, draped as it is in limited shades of white. But the understated scene is brought to life by the fully-blushed hue of the walls, the good vibe, warmth of the fireplace (even when not lit) and the subtle lighting. Most importantly, the elegant, understated backdrop allows diners to enjoy the food and company of their tablemates in a relaxed fashion. This is French fare, but it is not your mother’s French place, it’s more like your very hip, well-heeled, world-traveling brother in law’s place. Dishes like Young Rabbit Jambonette, Tuna Niçoise and Seared Foie Gras honor their originators with conservative foundations of fava beans and black olives, but they are very new interpretations thanks to the unpredictable extra touches the chef happens to drop into them. Likewise, portions are not minuscule here as might be typical. Instead, expect to leave full, very full indeed, meaning a round of appetizer, entrée and dessert will more than cover your gastronomic hankerings. In fact, no one can finish the signature Duck Mirabelle Served in Two Courses (Seared breast, haricot verts, chanterelle duck sauce, mission fig marmalade and Leg confit, roasted peach, succotash, Sam Adams gastrique). The same can be said of the wine list, too. At $33 average per entrée, it sure beats a flight on the Concorde, but that’s not available anyway. Mirabelle is smart, surprising and trés magnifique.
150 Main Street
Stony Brook, NY 11790