International Dining on Long Island – Trata

The single greatest thing about Mediterranean food is it includes the best of many cultures, including southern Europe from Italy to Greece, Turkey and northern Africa, particularly Egypt. This goes back to earlier days of active trade among these peoples, especially during the time of Alexander the Great and later, the Romans, resulting in mixing of a multitude of spices, ingredients and culinary charms. Trata, with locations in Manhattan and Water Mill, opened this past year in Roslyn with much fanfare. It brings all of the best of many worlds together, and yet maintains true to its Greek roots, making it a favorite among Nassau’s north shore denizens. Using the freshest ingredients, plates like the Saganaki appetizer (pan fried Kefalograviera & Hallomi cheese sticks with watermelon cubes drizzled with spicy toasted sesame seeds) are an apt introduction to the salt-n-sweet cuisine and the finish of salt, mint and honey establish a recurring theme. Entrées equally feature the duplicity of the Mediterranean spirit—heavy meats and seafood are both artfully served. Tsipoura (royal Dorade from Hellas) is a mild, delicately flavored fish served with broccoli rape, feta cheese, sundried tomatoes and almonds. This, like the signature dishes of the branzino and black bass, are all char-grilled with lemon, garlic, olive oil, fresh herbs and capers ($MP/lb). Paidakia (aka lamb chops) are complemented with Yukon baby potatoes, watercress and fennel salad, coriander pesto and rhubarb marmalade. The Mykonos Macaronada is worth honorable mention, too. This “spaghetti” is served with shrimp, scallops, spinach, tomato and feta in a white wine mélange. Desserts go out as lightly and delectably as the apps came in: Yiaourti (Greek yogurt) is served with three spoons of its sweet, frozen cousins (sour cherry, fig and quince). Ambiance and decor match with light, airy whiteness and splashes of color and natural wood, creating a soft, but lively vibe. Meet an old friend here or many, Trata is warm and does not take itself too seriously.

1446 Old Northern Blvd
Roslyn, NY 11576-2155
(516) 625-2600

Water Mill
1020 Montauk Hwy
Water Mill, NY 11976-2627
(631) 726-6200