Ode to a Grecian Rotisserie
The only thing missing from Yevma Authentic Greek Cuisine in East Meadow is an actual Athenian street scene in the windows. Utilizing ingredients imported from the motherland, the vibe is that of an estiatorio (formal Greek restaurant) with the more casual psistaria (grill house or café) and a little taverna (nighttime food spot) all at once. Yevma’s authenticity quotient is elevated on weekends with the lauded kokoretsi, a skewered and rotisserie-cooked delicacy of lamb offal wrapped in lamb intestines. Delving into cross-cultural pollination, their brand-new dessert item puts Greek yogurt into New York-style cheesecake. Opa!

Love Wrapped in Lettuce
Hibachi has some competition in Stony Brook. Ssambap Korean BBQ Restaurant is throwing down gogigui, a tableside, grilling technique more akin to a backyard party than Southern low ‘n’ slow. It’s all explained in the name, Ssambap, which means, “wrap” and “rice,” referring to the traditional method of wrapping bite-sized morsels in leafy greens with rice. The star of the show in this assemblage is a variety of meats from land and sea, prepared raw in the kitchen and brought to the diner to cook at the table. Gravitate to the Sam-Gyub-Sal. The restaurant recommends this black pork belly be adorned with scallions and bean paste, then wrapped up and eaten in one bite.

Luxury Duck
Red Stixs brings the authentic flavors of Beijing to Water Mill via a Manhattan restaurant dynasty. A splinter group from the legendary Philippe Chow’s posse, Red Stixs is helmed by chef Skinny Mei, a Chow protégé who worked at the lauded Midtown venue. A major motivation to go: Red Stixs is one of the few destination Hamptons restaurants serving Peking duck, along with the less adventurous Beijing chicken. The duck involves a daylong prep process with air injections to puff out the skin and applications of glaze; this medieval Chinese dish is a cultural touchstone. And the presentation isn’t bad eithe