FHOO ASIAN BISTRO

294 Sunrise Hwy, Rockville Centre
(516) 442-4687

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A TIDAL WAVE OF RESTAURANTS that call themselves Asian Fusion, Asian Bistro, Asian Taste, Steak & Sushi, Sushi lounge, Asian this and Asian that have blanketed Long Island and they keep coming. More of them seem to be opening than the Island’s traditional favorite, Italian restaurants. Almost all of them feature menus that offer sushi, sashimi, teriyaki, tempura and special house rolls. Despite their fusion claims none of them fuse the foods of Asian nations. Rather, they serve Japanese and Chinese dishes with a light sprinkling of Thai, Malaysian, Mongolian and Korean preparations.

One of the latest, most elaborate and luxurious is the Fhoo Asian Bistro in Rockville Centre. It’s a flashy, modern, wide storefront along Sunrise Highway, a sprawling spot that reaches right through to Merrick Road. The upfront room and the substantial bar area in the rear are connected by a bracketed passageway. The dining room features a huge reclining Buddha statue overlooking the space.

Although the menu breaks little new ground, most of the food is quite good and the smooth service, by alert, accommodating waitresses is exceptional. Often with these Asian fusion venues, appetizers are better and more interesting than entrées. The opposite was the case at Fhoo Asian Bistro. Six shumai (Japanese shrimp dumplings, $6) were ordinary and unexciting. So too was a chicken lettuce wrap ($11) with plenty of meat but not plenty of flavor. Three crisp duck rolls in plum sauce ($9) were quite satisfactory but would have been much better with more duck. Only a bountiful portion of fresh, tasty seaweed salad ($7) stood out.

Among the entrées a large helping of tender, thin-cut ginger duck ($24) was noteworthy although I couldn’t detect any ginger. A sushi dinner with an attractive plate of ten pieces (three tuna, three salmon, yellow tail, uke, striped bass, one tuna roll, $22) was a varied feast for the eyes and palate. Better still was a cooked house special called a Snow Mountain Roll with a blend of exquisite shrimp tempura, cucumber, rich lobster salad and a delightful sprinkling of caviar ($14). Also, a combo shrimp and chicken teriyaki that included miso soup and salad (or rice) was a substantial plateful and a good buy at $24.

To cap it off, Fhoo Asian Bistro eschews predictable Asian dessert picks with a soaring and spectacular strawberry caramel sundae ($10).

richard jay scholem

Richard Jay Scholem practically invented the Long Island restaurant culture through 800+ reviews of the region's eateries both on radio and in print over the last 30 years. He is a former New York Times Long Island Section restaurant reviewer, has contributed to the Great Restaurants of...magazines and Bon Vivant, authored a book, aired reviews on WGSM and WCTO radio stations, served on the board of countless community and food and beverage organizations, and received many accolades for his journalism in both print and broadcast media. He is currently available for restaurant consultation. Reach him at (631) 271-3227.