Where to Eat This November

In this month’s gossip goulash: A goose is cooking in Port Washington, sausages abound in Freeport and a seasoned chef rides into Bayport’s Grey Horse Tavern.

Kent Monkan, the executive chef and owner of Glen Head’s Heirloom Tavern and Locust Valley’s The Brass Rail, will open a new restaurant this month in Port Washington called The Wild Goose. Monkan will focus “a great deal on local ingredients and more esoteric and vegetarian preparations” at his third place, which was previously home to Organico. The menu will include dishes such as roasted squab with pain perdu and huckleberries and black bass with artichoke risotto and lobster broth. 75 Main Street, 516-441-5505

A new sausage-making operation is launching in Freeport this month: Liberty Links, helmed by an employee of a butcher shop also located in the village. After graduating from SUNY Cobleskill’s culinary arts program, Brian Von Der Linn developed his skills as a butcher at Steve’s Prime Meats on Guy Lombardo Boulevard. Von Der Linn described his relationship with Steve’s owner and his financial backer, Ryan Stenzel, as “more of a brotherhood above all.” Unsurprisingly, Steve’s will supply the meat and poultry for the nine types of fresh sausage to be offered by Liberty, including bratwurst, kielbasa and a lamb merguez bathed in red wine. There will be one kind of sausage that rotates monthly like turducken served with an orange marmalade, while all tubes will be cooked on a flattop grill after being soaked in a marinade of undisclosed contents Von Der Linn calls Holy Water. For add-ons, expect 15 house-made sauces (tzatziki, garlic aioli) and double that number in toppings (pickled onions, beer cheese). The takeout-only menu will also include non-sausage items like pastrami dumplings, which he described as “coarsely chopped pastrami mixed with sharp Swiss cheese and the best German sauerkraut, paired with a thick side of Guinness mustard. I say every bite is toe-curling, life-changing and everything in between.” 154 Atlantic Avenue, 516-442-5601

Bayport’s Grey Horse Tavern recently hired Lia Fallon to be the restaurant’s new executive chef. Fallon has led several kitchens on Long Island’s East End in recent years, among them Jedediah Hawkins Inn in Jamesport and Brewology in Speonk, and also owned her own restaurant, Amarelle, in Wading River from 2009 to 2013. She had been working as a private chef before joining Grey Horse, which is owned by Linda Ringhouse and Irene Dougal. “Linda and Irene and I share the same food philosophy, which is as fresh, local and natural as you can get. With that being said, I wanted to be more creative in ways that would suit the tavern well,” said Fallon, referring to the new fall menu. While the restaurant’s most popular items—two are the pear salad and the fried calamari, according to the chef; the latter is dusted and fried in cornmeal before being tossed in Parmesan, peppadew peppers, scallions and black olives—remain, newcomers include a charcuterie plate featuring bison salami, duck sausage and goat brie; skillet-baked macaroni and cheese with smoked Gouda, caramelized onions and duck confit; and a Tuscan-style swordfish. 291 Bayport Avenue, 631-472-1868

niko krommydas

Niko Krommydas has written for Tasting Table, BeerAdvocate, Munchies, and First We Feast. He is editor of Craft Beer New York, an app for the iPhone, and a columnist for Yankee Brew News. He lives in Brooklyn, New York.