In the last few years, lobster sliders and even beloved lobster rolls have made room at the table for something a bit brinier. Oysters, the fish of the blue-collar Long Islander at the turn of the 20th century, have been popping up on menus from Brooklyn to Bay Shore and beyond. The offerings come from all over. Think the North and South Shores of Long Island, the West Coast, Prince Edward Island and New Zealand, giving locals the chance to take taste buds to international waters. In a sea of standouts, five Long Island restaurants sit atop the food chain.

WAVE, Port Jefferson

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Famed Admiral’s Deck, which offers tremendous views of the Long Island Sound, is closed for the season but the seafood dishes at WAVE are reason enough to keep heading down Port for dinner. When it comes to oysters, diners have an option to be classic or indulgent. The chilled raw oysters, served with vodka mignonette, cocktail sauce and lemon, offer a traditional start to a three-course meal. Those hoping to dance on the wild side can splurge on the fried oysters with a grilled peach salsa that adds a sweet finish. Go

Salt & Barrel, Bay Shore

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On a five-star scale, Salt & Barrel is a solid six-and-a-half. The stylish, comfortable dining room boasts high tin ceiling, velvet blue chairs and an oyster bar menu with options from noted regions like Long Island, Maine, British Columbia and New Zealand. Bartender Thomas Crawford’s innovative cocktail menu includes vodka and gin-based sippers combined with citrus mixers that pair perfectly with seafood. The complex Laundress Sour, which blends vodka with calming chamomile and indulgent pasteurized egg whites, is a must-try. Go 

Frisky Oyster, Greenport

Oysters are a part of the fabric of Greenport’s history—farmers harvested the Long Island Sound for decades leading up to World War II. The Peconic Gold Oysters Friskafella celebrates the shell fish’s revival with a modern twist on the briny classic. Made with garlic-scented spinach, chipotle and parmigiano aioli, the savory option is quintessential comfort food for cooler months. Go 

Blue Point Oyster Bar & Bistro, Blue Point

In a town known for its oyster farms, it’s a wonder it took so long for an oyster bar to set up shop. Kevin Kessler, whose Backstreet Burger food truck has been a hit with Stony Brook students and faculty and imbibers at Blue Point Brewery, flexed his culinary muscles by opening the chic space in July. The raw bar offers oysters from East to West that go well with white vinos like Pinot Blanc. Go

Waterzooi, Garden City

This Belgian-style bistro offers a lively happy hour scene and an oyster menu that’s 10 options deep. Popular choices include the sweet, salty and succulent flower oysters from local Pine Island waters and the crisp, clean Hood Canal oysters harvested in the Puget Sound. Go