Where to Eat This September

Each month, Niko Krommydas serves up a steaming bowl of gossip goulash made with the latest restaurant news on Long Island.

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SHINY COFFEE HEALTHY POKE Jolin Wang, whose family owns four poké places in California, is pursuing her own passion for the wildly popular Hawaiian raw-fish salad in Hicksville’s Aero Plaza. Like the slew of fast-casual restaurants that serve the simple dish with an assembly line, customers can design their own poké bowl here at the counter, with a base of white or brown rice or mixed greens, and then a choice of toppings that include ahi tuna, avocado, ginger, masago, kizami nori and ponzu sauce. The eatery also has a coffee bar, handled by Jolin’s husband and brother-in-law, David and Andy, respectively, who are both experienced baristas. They produce drinks employing assorted brewing methods, including pour-over and Chemex: 1040 South Broadway, Hicksville, 516-605-1666, shinycoffeehealthypoke.com.

BURGEROLOGY This is the second outlet for burgers and eye-catching milkshakes from Eddie Galatoulas and Brendan Banks, who is the executive chef. Here, the kitchen is run by Ben Durham, formerly of Prime and Four Food Studio. New signature shakes, including the Movie Theater—topped with Snow Caps, Twizzlers, Sour Patch Kids, chocolate-dipped pretzels and popcorn—come in edible chocolate cups. In keeping with Burgerology’s laboratory theme (burgers are named after Albert Einstein and Thomas Edison), they are shaped like Erlenmeyer flasks: 308 Main Street, Huntington, 631-923-2441, burgerologyrvc.com.

MEDITERRANEAN SEAFOOD & GRILL Ayhan Hassan, who closed the Plainview outpost of his restaurant, Ayhan’s Shish Kebab, a few weeks ago, recently sold its branch in Great Neck to Brady Land, the group’s general manager who has renamed it and tweaked the menu. It retains most of Ayhan’s Mediterranean and Arabic dishes and features new seafood items like coho salmon and rainbow trout. There are also more signature Greek, Turkish and Israeli touches: 132 Middle Neck Road, Great Neck, 516-498-9300.

DANG BBQ After selling Islip’s Port Royal Grill in 2012, Anthony Mastrantonio kept his smokers and started a catering company, Bulls | BBQ. Now he is also slow-smoking barbecue in Texas, St. Louis and Kansas styles at his new restaurant. Brisket, sausage, turkey, pork and chicken are being offered, even among the 40 mix-ins on a build-your-own-macaroni-and-cheese menu that also includes toasted crushed Cheetos. A lineup of monstrous “Academy Award Winning Sammiches” bear names like A-pork-alypse Now and Poultry-Geist: 174 Islip Avenue, Islip, 631-581-3264, dangbbq.com.

KELLY’S ALE HOUSE One straightforward Irish pub has replaced another, that being the Twisted Tavern: 4777 Sunrise Highway, Bohemia, 631- 567-6788.

PIZZAREV This fast-casual pizza chain, started in Los Angeles in 2012, has closed its original Long Island outpost in Syosset after a year and four months. It still operates stores in Deer Park, Valley Stream and Hauppauge, serving pizza in an assembly-line production style.

niko krommydas

Niko Krommydas has written for Tasting Table, BeerAdvocate, Munchies, and First We Feast. He is editor of Craft Beer New York, an app for the iPhone, and a columnist for Yankee Brew News. He lives in Brooklyn, New York.