Designers are making the most of the nippy weather with bold, bright renditions of the statement coat. A trench is a ubiquitous, yet timeless, staple the moment things get chilly. But many designers threw a fashionable curveball with unexpected shapes, proportions and fabrics.

Ever the one to buck norms, JUNYA WATANABE had scrappy, hodgepodge patchwork sleeves of various fabrics and materials applied to an otherwise standard raincoat. JW ANDERSON played with color and proportion in a completely abstract rendering and MAISON MARGIELA showed a sexy edge with a heart-shaped cutout on the bodice and peekaboo slashes down the side.

Trenches don’t last all season, best to go heavier when the temps drop. Shearling is a fairly standard material used for centuries but HERMÈS opted for it in bold purple, blue, green and turquoise panels and PRADA kept the color coming with a pink and burgundy belted number. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN added a twist to the black leather motorcycle jacket with a baby pink fur lining.

There’s another component to warm-weather fashion: practicality. Rain, snow and freezing temperatures often lead many to skip the more fashionable options and throw on a trusted puffer. Designers homed in on this concept, delivering puffers that have warmth going for them in the utilitarian category. That is unless bright blue or sunflower yellow à la SACAI and FENTY X PUMA are your everyday palette. Expect the unexpected at BALENCIAGA—oversized and asymmetrical are a house signature this season. TOD’S—the designer of classics—got in on the fun too with a leather, multicolored adaptation of the puffer.