Foodies flock to new restaurants. Restaurant critics also target the new culinary kids on the block. All of them want to be the first to visit the newest guy and tell the rest of us what to expect. To accomplish this task they are passing some of the most outstanding restaurants on the island, the elite operations that have eliminated their rough spots over the years. Yet, few if any of the new entries achieve that status. In fact many of them close after a relatively short run.

My vote goes to the excellent, established eating places that deserve some continuing coverage.

Exhibit A is a restaurant like the 5-year-old Kyma in Roslyn with a menu that offers traditional Greek and accessible, mainstay American dishes. All of them are consistently good, often great versions. Speaking of consistency, it’s the mark of a great restaurant. At Kyma, if you order the same dish three times its taste and size will never vary. There are no unwelcome surprises.

Among the many welcome choices here are all the seafood dishes. Kyma means wave in Greek so the delicate hand with seafood (some of which is flown in from the Mediterranean) here is appropriate. Try the substantial lobster bisque laced with pieces of lobster (one order will serve two) or the massive seafood linguini accurately described as “the entire sea on your plate,” loaded with fresh shrimp, mussels, scallops, clams and oysters.

Meat eaters aren’t neglected; there are lamb chops, sirloin steak and veal on the menu. If they all are as good as the soft, almost fork-tender filet mignon special you won’t be disappointed.

A mountain of rich, smooth Greek yogurt topped with honey, fruit and a sprinkle of nuts is an ideal closer for meals at Kyma. (The generous portion is more than enough for two diners.)

Kyma covers all the bases. Care is taken everywhere. The eager to please waitstaff is warm and friendly. And this is a beautiful space of white walls, soaring white beamed ceilings and white brick arches.