Spring fashion week runways were dominated by statement eye makeup. Veteran makeup artist Kiyoshi Maeda has the low-down on how to rock the catwalk look.
Do a 180
Bold eye makeup is being turned on its head, literally. “Instead of top eyeliner only, bottom liner and thick eye lashes are in, especially bottom lashes,” Maeda said. To rock this inverted look with smudge-proof impunity all day, he recommended liquid, waterproof eyeliner instead of traditional pencils.
The Color of the Season
Fashion has got the blues. This bright primary hue has dominated makeup this season, and one of the reasons is its versatility. “I think blue is easy for everybody. If you want to get really funky, you can do really colorful stuff,” Maeda said. “But [blue] is kind of on that fence—still wearable for everybody.” Hone the use of the color on any complexion by complementing the shade to your skin tone. Think light, airy blues for fair skin and work toward deeper, royal blues for darker or tanner skins.
Eccentric Cat Eyes
These feline features are also shape-shifting. Instead of the bold straight wings that have dominated that last few seasons, try “different shapes, especially a little rounding off the edge.”
As far as color goes, cat eyes are even getting in on the blue hue with colored liners. “Eyeliner is still very in, and all different makeup companies are seeing blue as their most popular color. It’s not like yellow or red. You don’t see those too much on the street or even the magazines. Those strong colors won’t work for every day, but blue does.”
Tools of the Trade
On shoots, Maeda’s a fan of MAC and Make Up For Ever—cult favorites for lovers of deep pigmented shades. “Stronger pigment is easier for me to work with.” But his on-screen go-to isn’t always the best for an everyday visage. “Under the light [of a photoshoot], you have to make a look really strong so it looks normal. But most people get afraid to use that strong color.”
For day-to-day, Maeda likes to keep it simple with MAC’s Pro Long Wear Paint Pot ($22). Since it’s a cream shadow, it tends to stay in place all day better than standard palettes. “Powder shadow could make a mess sometimes, and when you apply it in the morning, it can disappear in the afternoon. You may think cream eyeshadow will get stuck on your eye crease—which a lot of them do—but this one doesn’t.” The paint pot comes in seven shades covering a variety of earth tones.